Tuesday, March 27, 2007

The Adventures of Captain Gale: The Land of Unfinished Dreams

From: BrianGale@alum.bucknell.edu [mailto:BrianGale@alum.bucknell.edu]
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 10:56 AM
To: celebration_news@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [celebration_news] The Land of Unfinished Dreams

Greetings from the land of sun and heat! It seems that all of the United States' heat has been sent south to me in the Bahamas. It has been cloudless with highs in the 90s and lows in the mid 70s for the past week and a half, ever since I left Tom and Ryan in Nassau. A bit warmer than I like it - I'm more of an 80s/60s person myself. But I have broad shoulders with which to carry this burden, so I shan't complain.

After leaving Nassau I headed to Royal Island, an island 3 miles long whose center is carved into a nice cove that offers 360 degree protection from the winds. I spent several hours exploring the ruins of what was once someone's vacation home.

A man on a neighboring boat called the Bahamas "The land of unfinished dreams," and I can see his point. I have seen dozens of abandoned buildings in my time here: some are simply foundations; some were near completion when abandoned, with the stickers still on the windows; and some, like on Royal Island, long abandoned and being reclaimed by the island. This one is more of a vacation complex than a vacation home, more than a half dozen buildings with tile walkways between them. There was a two story main house and several smaller houses, perhaps for the employees, perhaps guest houses. There were small storage buildings, a covered porch, and a large building serving as a great room, with vaulted ceilings and enourmous fireplace. The occupants had built roads across the island and ringing the harbor. There were 5 foot high, 3 foot wide stone walls, an enormous concrete pier on each side of the island, and the side of one hill had been terraced for what I imagine must h!
ave been incredible gardens. I always wonder what might have happened to cause such a place to be abandoned - the death of the owner, a loss of wealth, perhaps a former hideout for a former drug lord!

From Royal Island I made a day trip to Spanish Wells, an immaculate little town with perfect little houses and their perfect little gardens in the perfect front yards. I visited here three years ago with Nisa and Truman, and aside from the appearance that everyone's name seems to be Pinter here, my strongest memory was visiting the grocery store. A little backgroung info - Truman has an enormous love of icecream. Whenever I talk to Truman on the phone, I like to ask "How many containers of icecream are in the freezer?", to which the reply is someting along the lines of, "Only 6, and one is Nisa's!" Well, on their trip three years ago, we went to the grocery in Spanish Wells, and when we got to the ice cream freezer - well, it was like a kid at the mall just before Christmas. Truman stood agog in front of a 12-pack of those cheap icecream sandwiches with the fake chocolate cookie that are soooo good. Now, Truman and Nisa don't haverefrigeration on their boat, it's 90 deg!
rees outside, and we're a mile or so from the boat. I say, "no way - ther'es no way I'm gonna let you buy that, it would be 4 sandwiches per person!" To which Truman replied, "are you Kidding?? I could eat two before we got to the register!"

Fast forward three years, and I'm looking at a six-pack of ice cream sandwiches (a denomination they did not have in 2000). Heartbroken, I left he store ad island empty-handed. And now Truman, with all these witnesses, I offer my apologies. Next time we have an ice cream party in Aisle 11!

The following day, another boat that I met at royal I. and I rented a guide to get us through the maze of reefs known as The Devil's Backbone. We had waited for a calm day, and it wasn't too hairy, but with a reef 50 feet to port, a limestone and sand beach 75 feet to stadrboard and swells on the beam rolling the boat through 60 degrees and pushing the boat toward shore, it certainly kept me on my toes! An engine problem on this windless day would have been, well, bad.

Once over the Backbone I entered a nice 5 mile long, 1 mile wide bay enclosed by Harbor Island, a fancy tourist town with posh hotels and villas, all unobtrusive and very nice. There are little stores to shop in if that's what you fancy. There's a lovely 3.5 mile "pink sand" beach, though pink might be a generous description. Best of all, however, is the rumor that there's a place to get an icecream cone here!
I'll let you all guess what I'll be doing tomorrow.

Brian

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